And the tea is served in a very different manner, one which often leads the novice to burnt fingers, and a soiled shirt. In Los Angeles, you rarely have a choice of more than one type of tea in Hong Kong, it’s rare to be offered fewer than five. to 3 p.m., the hours in Hong Kong begin at around 6 a.m. While most teahouses in America are open only from about 10 a.m. There are certain styles and rituals endemic to the teahouses of Hong Kong that stand in stark contrast to the rituals of the dim sum houses of Los Angeles. The new generation, he bemoans, is more interested in breakfasting at McDonald’s. Unfortunately, according to Willy Mark, the teahouse is becoming a thing of the past. The teahouse, I should add, is always the same one, for once a teahouse is chosen, it’s visited with the same sort of loyalty usually reserved for USC-UCLA football games. In the old days, a Chinese gentleman would begin his day with 30 minutes or so of tai chi chuan, followed by an hour of practice on one or more of his musical instruments, leading inevitably to breakfast with his favorite song bird, carried along in a fine silver cage, to a venerable teahouse, where he was well known, and well respected. When I was last in Hong Kong, a fellow named Willy Mark, who’s the on-staff epicure of the Hong Kong Tourist Association, lamented long and loud to me over many a cup of very strong tea, that the traditional ritual of the Chinese teahouse, where those marvelous snacks called dim sum are served in the morning, was quickly coming to an end.
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